Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.